The second worst area is the drivers side front wing, again the lacquer has worn and it could do with being repainted. I'm planning to paint this and some other smaller areas myself, I've purchased some Tungsten paint for this already.
Wednesday, 23 May 2012
Bodywork
The second worst area is the drivers side front wing, again the lacquer has worn and it could do with being repainted. I'm planning to paint this and some other smaller areas myself, I've purchased some Tungsten paint for this already.
Sunday, 22 April 2012
The Sovereign on lattice wheels
The car drives well on them, it accelerates a little better due to the smaller rolling diameter of the tyres and thus reduced gearing. The 55 tyres still give a decent ride whilest the 8" width gives ample grip for high speed cornering.
I plan to get the tyres removed and perform a DIY refurb. I'll pull off the unsightly wheel balance weights on the front of the rims and have them placed inside the drum of the wheels when they are rebalnced. I'm thinking of going for darker painted spoke, perhaps a gunmetal hue, with the dishes will be repolished. I'll put the five spokes back on while the refurb is being done.
Wednesday, 18 April 2012
New air filter and engine bay condition
I decided to replace this with a standard 4.0L airbox that I had in the shed, containing a used but decent panel filter element. The cone filter gave a louder induction noise but if anything the car seems to me to have more mid-range power with the standard airbox.
As can be seen from the below picture the engine bay is pretty filthy, I plan to start getting it cleaned up. On the plus side it all seems to be working in there and there's no real rust to speak of. It seems to have seen a liberal use of waxoil on the bulkhead and inner wings which has collected a lot of dirt. I'm planning to refurb a cam cover to replace the one on the engine presently, I've also got a much better chrome exhaust manifold shield to go on.
Monday, 16 April 2012
New wheels
I was left with the five spokes on the car. I really like the sporty look of these wheels, one downer though with the set I have is that they have 60
I was hunting for a new set of wheels and came across this quite rare set of five 16x8" lattice wheels at the right price. They've a very period style which I like, quite a sporty but classy choice I feel. Overall I pleased with the condition for the price, the main think is there's no corrosion on
The wheels were dirty so with the help of my lovely assistant I gave them a really good clean. The condition is very usable though I plan to refurb them down the line when the tyres run out. The spokes are silver, I'm thinking of going for a darker gunmetal colour. The centres and dishes would look great repolished.
Sunday, 1 April 2012
Oil change
A range of viscosities are acceptable in the AJ6 engine, 10W40 is a fairly middle of the road thickness. Some specialists recommend a thicker grade, apparently Jaguar themselves recommended 20W50 for engines with above 100k miles. I've used a thicker grade in the past but thought it probably wasn't necessary this time. The gauge on the dash shows strong oil presure and there
Before I could get started I found that I had a curious problem, I didn't have a socket that would fit the sump plug. Every documented reference to AJ6 oil changes stated that the sump plug is 30mm but I couldn't get a 32mm socket on mine, the largest I had! I proceeded to measure the plug with a vernier caliper, it showed it to be just under 33mm (see top picture). Once I'd nipped out to buy this size socket I was able to get on with dropping the oil.
While the oil was draining I replaced the oil filter. It's located under the inlet manifold on the near side of the engine, not the most accessable position. I find the best way to get in there is to get the car on stands and removed the near side wheel, you can then reach through the wheel arch around the front subframe and get a strap wrench on the filter to spin it off.
Wednesday, 28 March 2012
Uprated dampers and thicker roll bar fitment
Fitment of these parts is very straight forward. The damper is secured with a nut and bolt through a bush in the lower wishbone assembly and fixed at the top to the inner wing with a bush either side. The above picture shows these new yellow coloured upper bushes, they are sandwiched in and held by a 17mm nut accessed from the engine bay. The old ones didn't actually look too bad but were passed there best. When these bushes fail
The other new part to fit was the thicker roll bar, this will reduce the amount of body roll in cornering. Again, this is a cheap and simple to install upgrade, the part cost £20 from ebay. The bar is held to the subframe with two brackets that fit over "D" shaped bushes, these each secured with a 13mm bolt at the top and and a 13mm nut and bolt at the bottom. The bar also attaches to the lower wishbones via a drop link, basically a short bar with a bush at either end. A bit a soak with some penatrating oil before starting work helps to get old nuts and bolts moving.
Initial impressions are that these changes have made a very good improvement to the handling, the ride also seems better too. The old dampers seemed well passed their best and didn't do a great job of controlling a lowering springs leading to the ride being somewhat "bouncy". When really pushing on hard in cornering they seems to be a slight movement of the subframe to body so new vee mounts will probably be the next new front suspension parts required.
Monday, 30 January 2012
Chassis modifications
The next developments on the suspension front will be to fit stiffer front dampers and a thicker anti-roll bar. The car currently has standard Sovereign dampers which are soft, I've an uprated pair from my previous 4.0L Sport variant. I've also a thicker anti-roll bar from an X300 XJR along with new D bushes and droplinks to fit. I've been doing some hard driving recently and the car does handle much better with the lowering springs fitted, these additional modifications should improve things further.
The brakes are another area that I'll be turning my attention to. They do seem to be working reasonably well though I am getting a “low brake pressure” warning from the digi-dash indicating the system is not in optimal condition. The '86-'89 XJ40's have a complex hydraulic brake system which although very good when in fine fettle has proved to have unreliabilities. The pressure accumulator sphere has a nitrogen filled rubber sack inside which leaks and loses it's ability to hold pressure over time, I suspect this part is failing on my car. There are other parts which can be unreliable too, so one solution to bin off the standard hydraulic systems and replace it with a conventional vacuum servo. There is an American outfit which produces a kit of parts to enable an '86-'89 car to be converted, I'm planning to go for this as it promises to be more reliable and improve efficiency and pedal feel too.
Also on the braking front I have the braided hoses to fit, I'll take the opportunity to change the brake fluid for something decent. I'm also on the look out for some drilled/vent front discs too.
Sunday, 29 January 2012
Fitting a bodykit
I've been thinking about which parts to fit and have now made a decision. Initially I will fit the TWR side skirts, followed by the Jaguarsport rear quarter spats, the look of these should work well with the standard body colour painted front spoiler already on the car and the standard bumpers. These parts should be fairly quick and easy to get prepped, painted and on the car, and as a following addition I will add the Jaguarsport front spoiler fitted with the Lucas fog lamps I have (these parts are pictured together). The other piece shown fits under the bootlid over the top of the rear bumper.
Down the line I'd like to fit the TWR front and rear bumpers (see lower picture), these need quite a bit of repair work with replacement fibreglass and filler as they have cracks and small areas of damage as can be seen. Another idea I have is to fit the chrome bumper blades to the body colour TWR bumpers to give a similar look to the Chasseur modified XJ40's. Before fitting any of these parts I'll be ensuring that all rust areas, namely to the sills, will be properly treated before covering them over.
Saturday, 21 January 2012
Rear end improvements
The next part I turned my attention to was the rear lamp cluster surround trims. As standard the Sovereign had chrome surrounds, the previous owner had painted them body colour along with a
They are very easy to fit and can be added to any XJ40 that doesn't already have them. I removed the four screws that secure each lamp cluster to the body and popped them out to make fitting easier. The two nearest the wing aren't as easy to remove but can be done by reaching in a spanner. The outer sides of the surrounds have two tabs that clip around the edge of the lens, the inner side has two larger tabs that must be folded around the inner edge of the lens to hold the surround in place.
Wednesday, 11 January 2012
Things to do in 2012
Now we're into the new year I've been having a think about what work needs doing and how I want to progress the car. I've come up with a list of items that'll start to get through soon, I'll be able to really crack on once it starts getting lighter in the evenings.
Interior: I'm pleased with my successful black interior fitment last year, I think it looks great. There are a number of relatively minor items that need either finishing off or fixing. The passenger side rear speaker isn't working, it's a new speaker so it should just be a bad wire connection. The drivers side window doesn't work, I'm sure the switch and wiring is okay so I suspect the motor's packed up. The headlining had obviously dropped and has been glued bad up by the previous owner, it looks grotty could do with replacing with a decent one, though it's a job that's on the backburner somewhat.
Exterior: The paint is very good overall but the laquer is going through on the roof so could do with a re-spray. There some bubbling up of paint around the ends of the sills and rear arches where rust is attacking, I'll grind this back and repaint before things get worse. I've the bodykit parts to fit, I'll start with fitting the TWR side skirts once I've got them painted and the afore mentioned rust is treated.
Chassis: The car is riding well on the lowering springs but the suspension could do with some further development. For the front I've got the polybushed upper wishbones to go on, some sport dampers and the X300 XJR anti-roll bar so that should tighten things up further. On the brakes front I want to get the braided hoses on and replace the fluid. I'd like to refurb the Jaguarsport wheel though I'm still on the look out for a set of 17's or 18's that'll suit the car.
Engine: The engine's running quite well now though does still seem to be a little hessitant at low rev's particularly so I'll continue to investigate. I've got the Jaguarsport inlet manifold so might try swapping that on. I'll be giving the engine bay a damn good clean as it's filthy!
That's by no means an exhaustive list of the jobs that need doing but it should keep me busy for a good while.
Sunday, 1 January 2012
Exterior pictures
Completed interior swap
Saturday, 10 December 2011
Interior swap part 2
Monday, 28 November 2011
Engine temperature issues
I had a rummage through the spares in the shed and found a thermostat removed from one of my previous XJ40's, I knew this one worked okay so decided to fit it. The coolant was looking murky so I also decided to drop this and replace at the same time as the 'stat. Changing a 'stat is very east, access to it is good and it's simply held in place with two long 10mm bolts. The hoses hold on with jubilee clips, the connectors to the two temp sensors just need to be unclipped.
Having replaced the thermostat I found that there was no difference to the temp gauge reading, it was still shy of centre! There appears to be a temp sensor in the coolant tank so perhaps this needs replacement.
Jaguarsport wheels
Saturday, 5 November 2011
New gear knob and gaitor
I've been swapping the original doeskin beige interior for a black one, it's most or less complete apart from the drivers seat. The "ski-slope" walnut centre console panel was damaged and faded so I've replaced it with a decent one from an auto car. The cut-out for the gear level is a different shape so I've adapted the gaitor to fit this.
To finish off I've replaced the heavy metal gear knob with a nice walnut jobbie, it has a growler badge with "Jaguar Coventry" on the top. I'm pleased with the result.
Thursday, 3 November 2011
Clutch replacement
I've always tried to do all the work on my XJ40's myself, this is the first time I've taken one to garage for anything other than an MOT. I probably could have tackled it at home but it would have been a lot of work with the car up on stands and I'm keen to get her driving well. I asked around for a few quotes, the best I received was £350 from Mr Clutch so that's where she is.
The work is underway and almost complete now, I should be able to pick the car up today. I've been told that it needed a flywheel skim plus a new spigot bearing and slave cylinder so the price of the job has certainly added up! I've also asked them to change the gearbox oil while their in there. I'm really looking forward to driving the car once I get it back.
I've pictured my other XJ40, she looks well in British Racing Green with gold coachlines. This one doesn't cost as much to run!
Sunday, 16 October 2011
Five Spoke fitment
The third reason for swapping was that I suspected the old girl would drive better on the Five Spoke and this was evident after a test drive. The large "donut" tyres give a softer ride than the lower p
All in all I'm pleased with the change. There are a few other areas that will be restored to give a more period look, I'd like to get shot of the X300/X308 side mouldings and put some chrome rear lamp surrounds on in place of the body colour ones on it at the moment.
Monday, 3 October 2011
Lowering spring fitment - the results
Lowering spring fitment part deux
The first thing to do is to jacking the car up, remove the wheel and sit it on an axle stand. You can then get in to remove the four 13mm bolts holding the top spring pan to the body, the bolt furthest in requires a long socket extension to access. Before removing all the bolts it's a good idea to support the hub with a trolley jack as it will drop down once the bolts are out.
The next thing to do is unbolt the bottom of the
Once the assembly is out the spring needs to be compressed so that the top spring pan can be removed. Standard spring compressors can be used, make sure they are heavy duty items otherwise they will bend! Once the spring has been compressed the top spring pan can be unbolted and the spring removed. Refitment is the reserve of removal.